Hot Springs, S.D.

Warming Up to Hot Springs, S.D.

Fall River bubbles and churns its way through the heart of Hot Springs, S.D., (pop. 4,325) looking like any other swift mountain creek. But steam rising from the little river on cool mornings is a reminder of its unusual quality, and of the town’s heritage.

The geothermal waters of the southern Black Hills for centuries soaked away the aches and pains of American Indians. In 1892, the railroad came through, making Hot Springs a destination for travelers hoping the warm waters might relieve gout, nervous disorders, rheumatism, and just about any other complaint imaginable. Big sandstone hotels sprang up.

A Hot Springs promotional booklet 100 years ago touted not only the waters but fresh air that “makes you hungry, eager to climb mountains, to walk, to bathe, to dance, to do everything and anything that is good for you. Next to the healing waters, it is the one thing that, more than any other, makes the weak strong and the strong stronger.”

Residents today are more subtle in singing the town’s praises, but no less proud. Even people who’ve never played a round are quick to mention how Golf Digest rated the municipal links, surrounded by pines and featuring spectacular vistas, among the best nine-hole courses in North America.

Hot Springs’ charms, says banker Tim Huber, have always meant tourist traffic. But increasingly, the town is seeing new residents who call themselves “metropolitan refugees,” he adds.

Hot Springs has a tradition of welcoming outsiders, not only because of tourism, but also because of all the veterans who pass through. The therapeutic waters and quiet setting amid the hills won Hot Springs the state veterans’ retirement home in 1890 and a federal Veterans Administration health care center in 1930. Both remain in operation and are major employers.

“It’s amazing what community volunteers do for our residents—square dances, help writing letters, transportation to medical appointments or to a local restaurant for steak night,” says Loren Murren, superintendent of the state veterans’ home.

People volunteer not just to help individuals but the whole community, adds Gerald Collogan. He grew up in Hot Springs, went away to college, then returned to build a VA career.

“I’m not saying this is a town where everyone agrees about what’s best for the community,” he stresses. “We have disagreements, but when a big problem comes along, or a big opportunity, we work together.”

Paleontologists worldwide, Gerald adds, know Hot Springs for its ongoing fossil dig. About 100 mammoths died in a sinkhole here 26,000 years ago. But the very first workers who dug into the site and promoted it, after its discovery by homebuilders in 1974, weren’t paleontologists. They were Hot Springs residents who correctly guessed the dig would be significant to science and good for their town.

Still, it’s the geothermal waters that gave the town its name. For residents and visitors alike, the warm, soothing waters remain a refreshing treat. Evans Plunge, an indoor pool 200 feet long, has been a local institution since 1890. Its waters are a natural and constant 87 degrees. Nowadays, swimmers more likely are drawn by the pool’s water slides than by medicinal expectations.

However, the Springs Bath House is a throwback to the old spa days, even though its therapies are different. It boasts 102-degree waters and offers customers deep tissue massages, herbal body wraps, and skin treatments. The new building is a replica of the Sulfur Bath House that stood on the same spot 100 years ago.

John and Deb Eiring, who moved to Hot Springs six years ago, sometimes can be found taking a dip in the perpetually warm waters or taking a stroll along the steaming Fall River.

“Living here,” Deb says, “we sometimes forget that walking through some communities isn’t pleasant, and maybe isn’t even safe at times. In Hot Springs, it’s always a pleasure.”

Paul Higbee is a freelance writer in Spearfish, S.D.

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