Sailing Home

Sailing Home
In the town of Oriental, you’d expect at least one Asian restaurant. But if residents of this coastal village crave Chinese food, they’ve got to drive several miles to get it.

As it turns out, the town once was known as Smith’s Creek. But in the late 1800s, the local postmaster had the town renamed when he became inspired by a novelty in his wife’s collectibles—a nameplate from the sunken Union ship, Oriental.

Fortunately, the streets are more obvious indicators of the town’s true character, with names such as Seafarer, Skipper, Sea Vista, and the like. Located on the expansive Neuse River, which leads shortly to the Pamlico Sound, Oriental is known as the Sailing Capital of North Carolina.

Grace Evans, an avid boater who began visiting the town in the 1950s and moved there permanently in the ’70s, says every house in town is typically referred to as either “water” or “not water,” according to whether or not the owners sail. Most every home, it seems, is decidedly “water.”

And it’s not hard to tell which is which. One of the positives of living in Oriental is the opportunity to keep your boat in your backyard, with several creeks and tributaries providing the perfect personal dock space.

In fact, vessels outnumber residents in Oriental by about 1,000 to 875, says Bill Croughwell, a lifelong sailor who retired here to be near his son. Many locals discovered the town while boating to some other destination along the Intracoastal Waterway, the ribbon of water weaving through the Atlantic coastline from Maine to the Florida Keys.

“Half the people in this town have probably been here on a boat first,” says Russ Stewart, owner of a local coffeehouse. Stewart and his wife fall into that category, having returned to Oriental after stopping there during a yearlong cruise.

One more category of residents is called the half-back. “That’s a person who retired to Florida (from the North), then came half-way back,” Croughwell says.

Even the preachers have ties to the water. The Episcopal, First Baptist, and Presbyterian ministers were formerly United States’ Navy or American Merchant Marine chaplains.

Evans explains Oriental’s appeal to migrants such as herself: “The water is uncongested. You’ve got creeks everywhere that you can go and anchor in and just not hear anything except owls and fish.” Plus, she says, the active community is welcoming, with a choice of locally owned shops and eateries and a thriving cultural scene infused by writers, musicians, painters, and actors. And, of course, the sailing is excellent.

Evans is no stranger to life on the water. In 1980, she co-founded the Oriental School of Sailing and later opened Carolina Sailing Unlimited, both of which continue to operate under new owners. The best winds for sailing, she says, usually begin in the early afternoon, so local races and classes are scheduled accordingly.

The sailing season in Oriental lasts from May to early November. Local clubs and associations host a members-only regatta once a month, and open races on other weekends. A good turnout is 35 to 40 boats. On non-racing days, Croughwell says, you might see a dozen boats on the water “just fussing around.”

For those who have extended freedom, winters are spent cruising to warmer locales. “It’s a mobile community,” Evans says. “We all think it’s fun to sail to other places, but we’re so glad to get back.”

Kara Carden is a regular contributor to American Profile.

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