Cape Flattery, WA

Way Out on Cape Flattery

Flattery may get you nowhere, but a jaunt to Cape Flattery, Wash., will get you way out there. Cape Flattery, the westernmost point in the continental United States, is a magical tip resting within the reservation land of the Makah Indian Nation—a rare spot where you can experience both life on the edge and deep tranquility at the same time.

Before the Makah constructed the three-quarter mile trail out to the viewpoints, a walking pleasure, sightseers and tourists to the Cape were met with a muddy and sometimes dangerous trek. That began to change in July 1996, when AmeriCorps, our country’s domestic Peace Corps, in partnership with the Makah Tribal Council, began training seven tribal members of the Makah in construction through grants from Washington state. The crew, which invested more than 900 hours in tackling the trailhead project, earned partial college scholarships as a side benefit of the tribe’s alliance with AmeriCorps.

Now anyone willing to drive the five or so miles on a gravel road to reach the trailhead finds a well-maintained combination of western red cedar boardwalk and groomed earthen trails, all open to the public.

“The trail means a great deal to the community,” says Alice Langebartel, head of special projects for the Makah. “It is a way for us to create pride in the younger members and preserve a portion of the reservation at the same time. It is important to us culturally to restore the pristine beauty that was there before, as well as provide economic growth through tourism.”

The path through the primordial forest turns through a lush growth of sun-dappled trees draped in moss. The sounds of trickling springs and songbirds soon blend with a distant roar of the ocean. Drawing closer to the edge, one emerges into the light, arriving quite suddenly at an astonishing overlook. There the world changes, and you hear not the birds of the interior but the sound of seals, gulls, and the crashing waves 120 feet below. Four observation decks afford views of breathtaking ocean scenery and sea life in the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary.

Hikers may observe a bald eagle snatching a salmon from the water or a pod of migrating gray whales. Awe-inspiring sights include views of the massive logs thrown onto shore and a glimpse of many of the 239 species of birds that call this protected land home. Across the water stands Tatoosh Island and her historic, still-operational light station, built in 1857, with its classic conical white tower and red roof.

Storms from the Gulf of Alaska can batter the coast in winter, but a break in the pattern surrounds you in crystal clear light. From June through September, the Makahs lead a free, guided tour in the afternoon, Wednesday through Sunday. Details can be obtained in the nearby town of Neah Bay (pop. 794).

The routes out to Cape Flattery are outrageously scenic, following forested landscapes and winding along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Nearby Rialto, Hobuck, and Shi Shi beaches yield agates, jaspers, Oregon jade, and give a whole new definition to the term driftwood. In August, Neah Bay hosts Makah Days that feature traditional games, dancing, and singing.

Not to be missed is the museum at the Makah Cultural and Research Center. Recognized as one of the nation’s finest tribal museums, the facility’s exhibits include findings from the ancient whaling village of Ozette, buried in a mudslide 500 years ago and recently rediscovered through tidal erosion. The uncovering of the village is considered one of the most significant archaeological discoveries ever made in North America. Makah artistry is also in evidence, in the exquisite basketry, masks, and jewelry on display and for purchase.

Barbara Clarke is a freelance writer from Port Townsend, Wash.

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