Stonington, CT

The Town that Looks to the Sea

“If I had my life to live over again,” says Arthur Medeiros, “I’d still fish.”

A fisherman for more than 50 years, Medeiros is a link in a chain of generations of fishermen who’ve gone to sea from Stonington, Conn. In a state known for its seagoing traditions—from whaling to nuclear submarines—Stonington (pop. 17,906) is home to Connecticut’s last commercial fishing fleet.

“All the towns around here used to be fishing ports,” says Dick Bardwell, Stonington’s dock master. “There’s still some independent fishermen along the coast, but no concentration except for here.”

“Here” is a narrow strip of land at the southeast corner of Connecticut, facing the Atlantic. The peninsula’s two main streets lead past quaint shops, 18th- and 19th-century homes, and the Old Lighthouse and Museum on Stonington Point with views of Watch Hill, R. I., and Fisher’s Island, N.Y.

This quiet slice of New England that makes up the town of Stonington encompasses several villages: the Borough of Stonington, whose incorporation in 1801 makes it the state’s oldest borough; Pawcatuck, home to many industries; Old Mystic; and Mystic (east of the Mystic River). Developed around the shipbuilding industry, Mystic’s historic buildings and tall ships at Mystic Seaport celebrate the traditions and crafts of seafaring life. “Mystic is great,” says Bardwell, “but (the Borough of Stonington) is every bit as important because we’re still an active fishing port and this is our heritage.”

That heritage reaches back to when fishermen went to sea for months and even years, sealing and whaling. “We have quite a maritime history,” says Connie Colom, curator of Stonington’s Captain Nathaniel Palmer House. Brothers Nathaniel and Alexander Palmer, shipmasters, ventured to desolate parts of the world. On one sealing voyage, Nathaniel discovered Antarctica. Edmund Fanning in the Betsey, Colom says, was the first to fly the U.S. flag around the world in 1797-98.

Today’s expeditions vary in length, depending on what fishermen seek—scallopers might stay out 10 to 14 days, other fishing trips last three to eight days, and a few boats return every night.

Many of Stonington’s early fishermen were Portuguese, as is Medeiros, whose uncle taught him to fish. “It was the thing to do when we were kids. We all started during the war (World War II), stringing bait, going lobstering,” he recalls.

“We couldn’t wait to get out of school and go fishing. And this was a booming port. We had 40 boats, and they were building boats right here in Stonington.”

As fish were depleted in the 1950s, the industry took a downturn. The fleet went from 40 draggers (boats that use nets for bottom fishing) to nine. “It almost looked like it was over,” Medeiros says. “But then we came back in 1979. Now there’s lots of yellow tails, flounder—we’re doing all right.”

One thing fisherman have is strong local support. They lease the docks from the town and just this year signed on for another 20 years, a mark of regard and trust between the town and its seafarers.

“You hear from other ports how people don’t support the fishermen, but here they do,” says Medeiros, who is president of the Southern New England Fishermen’s and Lobstermen’s Association. “I think it’s because they like to come on the docks—just like the tourists—read the Sunday paper, watch you work, ask questions. It’s part of the community they don’t want to see leave.”

The town docks are on the west side of the peninsula. A peaceful spot, the site includes a reminder that the sea can be perilous—a stone memorial commemorates 34 local fishermen who have died going down to the sea in ships. Stonington’s fishermen also are remembered at the annual Blessing of the Fleet (the last weekend in July), a two-day celebration with parades, bands, food, music, dancing on the docks, and a Sunday Mass. “The idea is to remember the deceased and ask for protection and abundance of fishing for the coming year,” says Medeiros, who chairs the event. “Everybody comes together then, different nationalities, different faiths.”

Medeiros witnessed many changes and improvements in 50 years of fishing. “Outriggers, better weather reports, technology and equipment—everything is more sophisticated than in the ’40s.”

Retired now, Medeiros remains involved. “I make the nets, and I give the men a hand repairing nets.” He adds casually: “Believe me, I’m connected.” To Stonington’s past and future. Like a link.

Alice Ross is a frequent contributor to American Profile.

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