Autumn Escapes

Discover the joys of getting lost. This is your chance to plan a day or a weekend to drive and explore.

Discover the joys of getting lost. This is your chance to plan a day or a weekend to drive and explore.

Fall is the time of year when nature decides to stage a riot, outdoing itself in a tumultuous display of color and cool weather that can leave one breathless. Nature cuts loose as in no other season.

It begins, gradually at first, high in the Rockies and the mountains of New York and New England in early September—then spreads out and down across the hills and valleys, ending in the lowlands and coastal regions of the South and East in late October to early November.

For the largest part, foliage season concentrates its most brilliant colors in late September through early October. In New England, upstate New York, and the upper Midwest, it often peaks around Columbus Day weekend—a perfect time to get away to enjoy what comes naturally. Farther South, foliage peaks later, in some regions extending into late October and early November. The fun lies in knowing when, where, and how to savor it fully.

At least half the states in the nation can boast a foliage season, though, as a general rule, the higher the elevation, the more vivid the hues. The East explodes with reds, oranges, and bronzes of the mixed deciduous woodlands. The West is painted in bright yellows of aspen stands and larches contrasting with the dark green of the conifers. In the Southeast the colors are no less lovely, running to spectacular shades of rich gold, yellow, and brown.

Keep in mind that nature is no more predictable with foliage than with anything else. The intensity of autumn’s colors depends on many factors, principally the shortening of days, but weather also plays a role. In general, foliage is better when trees have had plenty of rain, and day-night temperature swings are greatest.

Where you travel to wallow in autumn can be guided by two suggestions.

One is a willingness to roam. Wandering through the countryside with no particular goal in mind can be enormously rewarding. To drive over a rise and come upon a hillside aflame with red or gold maple leaves is a treat of the first order; to discover, unexpected, a valley awash in scarlet, gold, and green is worth any amount of uncertainty as to where exactly you are. Discover the joys of getting lost. This is your chance to plan a day or a weekend to drive and explore.

Second, do your best to escape the crowds. Stay away from main traffic routes and as close to nature as possible. That means using the interstates only to get to a general location, then looking on a map for lesser-known and slower roads, leading to smaller towns, inns, general stores, farms, perhaps a covered bridge, and life on a gentle scale.

Those traveling in New England, for instance, should try the Mohawk Trail (Route 2) running east and west through Massachusetts’ Berkshire Mountains (don’t miss the Bridge of Flowers in Shelburne Falls), or the Molly Stark Trail (Route 9) running parallel to Route 2 but 30 miles north, just over the Vermont border.

Both byways offer splendid vistas and natural snapshots of fall color, but even those roads can become heavily traveled during peak season. In Vermont, consider turning north off the Molly Stark onto Route 100. From there, you can drive as far north as you like, skirting the knees of the Green Mountains, all the way to the Canadian border. Or explore the White Mountains in northern New Hampshire and scenic Route 112. This is backpacking and day-hiking country, so give a thought to strolling up some trails.

In Virginia, poke around the Shenandoah Valley, and drive (or walk) through one of the passes of Massanutten Mountain, which divides the valley. Skyline Drive above Front Royal, Va., is one of the loveliest day trips you’ll find, but it can be crowded during autumn color, so look for alternatives and seek out uncrowded paths. West Virginia is another treat. Or extend your trip along the Blue Ridge Parkway stretching south—all the way to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Smokies, renowned for their beauty, offer spectacular foliage in carefully preserved forests. But also look for excursions into less heavily traveled areas. For those who want to walk, the Appalachian Trail winds directly through this area, and the Appalachian range in eastern Kentucky, Tennessee, and North Carolina offers many driving and day-hiking opportunities.

In Michigan, the Upper Peninsula is an excellent choice. South of the lakes, Route 37 from Grand Rapids to Traverse City takes you through the heart of thickly wooded Manistee National Forest. (Consider a canoe trip on the Manistee River while you’re in the area.) A drive along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan will be rewarding as well. In Minnesota, Route 2 through the Chippewa National Forest is a lovely drive, as is the area north of Duluth, especially Superior National Forest. But each state is different. Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio—all have regions of high color wherever there is forest cover.

Wherever you live, or will be visiting, study a map before leaving. Look for scenic drives (most road atlases designate these with markings) or roads whose chief function is to connect one small town to another.

For help in finding a route, the U.S. Forest Service maintains a Fall Color Hot Line at (800) 354-4595, and virtually every state with a notable foliage season has toll-free numbers to call. Each state varies in its message, but the information commonly includes where and when colors are likely to be at peak. Most messages are updated weekly, usually on Thursday or Friday.

Again, wherever you go, leave room for adventure and the unexpected. Often the most memorable part of a trip is an unplanned turn down a tree-lined country lane, or a foray along whatever promising route beckons with a sudden blaze of color.

Not to worry about places to stay: you may find the perfect bed & breakfast on your way, or a delightful country inn tucked in among the hills. If the place you find is full, make a note to return another time.

During foliage season it can pay to call ahead, but even that can fit into a ramble. One trick is not to put your nights’ lodgings too far apart. Once you reach color country, you’ll find it best to dawdle.

Richard Matthews is Northeast editor of American Profile.

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