An Unlikely German Settlement Preserves Its Past

To get to Roberts Cove, La., you must cross one of five bridges that span the surrounding bayous; there is no other way into this community of 500. After journeying that far into the heart of Cajun country, you might expect to find classic Creole culture—but what you'd get instead is a hearty "Willkommen."

That, of course, is German for "Welcome." As unlikely as it seems, Roberts Cove is, in the words of the locals, "a little piece of Germany in French Acadiana."

Settled in the 1880s by German families seeking religious and political freedom, the farming community remains an enclave of German tradition.

"We have our church and our chapel and our hall," says Josie Thevis, whose ancestor, Father Peter Leonard Thevis, planned the settlement, "and that's the heart of our community."

Which would no doubt please the 10 devout families who founded the Cove. Before leaving Germany, the group made a pilgrimage to a country shrine, seeking God's blessing for a safe journey. When they arrived safely at their chosen destination, they immediately built a similar shrine, to thank God for honoring their prayers. The small white chapel with gingerbread trim remains a focal point of the parish today.

"It means so much to us, to have a touch of Germany over here," says Thevis, who serves as choir director for St. Leo IV Catholic Church, the community's new place of worship. Parishioners continue to make ceremonial pilgrimages from this more modern church facility to the little chapel their ancestors built.

"Our religious traditions keep our heritage alive," Thevis says, citing the Feast of Corpus Christi and Palm Sunday as two such events. "These are the customs our grandparents brought over from Germany. We treasure them."

Perhaps the most cherished tradition of all takes place annually on Dec. 5, the Eve of St. Nicholas, which begins the Christmas season in Roberts Cove. Carolers make rounds throughout the community, accompanied by a costumed St. Nicholas.

The tradition is such a favorite that even those who've moved away from Roberts Cove come back to participate, and those without German ancestry often ask to witness the spectacle.

"I think the adults enjoy it as much as the children," says Clara Habetz, 85, a town elder.

Part of the appeal is the chance to hear authentic German songs, such as Stille Nacht (Silent Night) and Ihr Kinderlein Kommet (O' Come Little Children) sung in the native language.

In the early days, Roberts Cove children were taught exclusively in the German language through the second grade, then half in German and half in English thereafter. But during World War II, residents were afraid to be heard speaking German and the language eventually was lost to new generations. Habetz, who still corresponds with relatives in Germany, often is asked to translate letters for her younger neighbors.

An effort is underway to reclaim the language. For eight weeks in the summer, about 40 interested residents meet twice a week with an instructor. Habetz serves as unofficial teacher's assistant.

Roberts Cove residents are working to reclaim other parts of their past as well. Each year for Germanfest, a heritage committee recreates part of a 19th- century German home, such as a bedroom or kitchen. Although much of the original furniture was lost as families replaced hand-me-downs with modern furnishings, the committee gathers antiques that demonstrate how their ancestors lived.

A permanent German heritage museum also is in the works to offer visitors a chance to see such displays year-round. It will house the community's proudest possession, a pictorial genealogy book that is 90 percent completed.

Thevis and Habetz acknowledge that their hometown has inevitably been influenced by the Cajun culture, and that German cooking, dancing and crafts are largely reserved for festivals. But some things, such as a respect for the land and a love of God, remain—and each time they walk toward the Waldfahrtskappelle (pilgrimage chapel), they remember the people who made their blended lifestyles possible.

Kara Carden is a regular contributor to American Profile.

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