Soup's On
A former Navy Seabee builds hearty soups for fall
by Jean Kressy
Ken Haedrich has always been the kind of cook that home cooks like. His recipes are warm and cozy—the sort that inspired the name "comfort" food. His cookbooks are filled with dishes made for the family supper table—soups, breads, salads and pies.
As a boy growing up in New Jersey, Haedrich spent hours in the kitchen with his mother while she cooked, but the real hands-on experience came later. It was his stint in the Seabees, the Navy unit that builds bases and paves runways, that was the launching pad for his food writing career.
At his first assignment on Diego Garcia, an island off the tip of India, Haedrich was part of the team that mixed mortar and built concrete block walls for the barracks. "It was backbreaking work in 100 degree heat," he says. At his next station in Guam, he did some writing for the base paper and discovered how satisfying it was to cook for people. "When the other guys went out for beer, I got a big charge from staying back and making the meal," he says.
After the Seabees, Haedrich ventured into cookbook writing. His first project, a 48-page self-published paperback with vegetarian recipes, was printed on his brother's printing press.
In 1980, Haedrich moved to New Hampshire and worked as a cook at a school for special needs children. "I was cook and bottle washer," he says. "For five years, I cooked three meals a day for 40 to 50 people and had a great time." This broad culinary experience also gave him the confidence to pursue larger cookbook projects.
Always one of his favorites, soups are the subject of his book Soup Makes the Meal. "They are so satisfying and I love to cook them," he says. In the book, every soup is part of a seasonal menu and is accompanied with salad and bread.
"Autumn is the height of hot soup season," he says. "The soups tend to be colorful, bold, hearty and varied. The possibilities are rich and delicious."
Recipes reprinted with permission from Ken Haedrich's Soup Makes the Meal (Harvard Common Press, 2001). Books by Ken Haedrich- Apple Pie Perfect: 100 Delicious and Decidedly Different Recipes for America's Favorite Pie
- Country Baking: Simple Home Baking with Wholesome Grains and the Pick of the Harvest
- Country Breakfasts: Four Seasons of Cozy Morning Meals
- Pie: 300 Tried and True Recipes for Delicious Homemade Pie
- Feeding the Healthy Vegetarian Family
- Home for the Holidays: Festive Baking with Whole Grains
- The Maple Syrup Cookbook
- Simple Desserts
- Soup Makes the Meal
Squash, Cider and Apple Soup
Ken Haedrich likes to mix “storage” vegetables, like carrots and squash, with fruit in soups. “The result is often a sweet and savory soup that I find very satisfying,” he says.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 cups peeled and diced butternut squash
2 large apples (any kind), peeled, cored
and chopped
3 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 cups fresh apple cider (not apple juice)
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
Instructions
1. Melt butter in a stockpot or large saucepan over medium heat. Stir in onion, cover, and cook 10 minutes.
2. Add squash, apples, broth, salt and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, covered, until squash and apples are soft, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. While soup simmers, pour cider into a medium skillet. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced to 4 or 5 tablespoons. Remove from heat.
4. Remove bay leaf from soup. Spoon solids into a food processor. Process until smooth. Stir back into broth. Add reduced cider. Reheat soup, stirring in brown sugar and spices. Serves 6.
Recipe reprinted with permission from Ken Haedrich’s Soup Makes the Meal (Harvard Common Press, 2001).
Soups On, American Profile, 10//11/09
Nutritional Information
Nutritional facts per serving: 170 calories, 4g fat, 2g protein, 35g carbohydrates, 5g fiber, 410mg sodium.
Vermont Cheddar Bisque
“No one has ever asked me, but I’ve thought about what I’d like to eat for my last meal. I’m pretty sure it would be Welsh rarebit on toast points. This soup is just a step or two removed from that dish. The flavor is virtually the same; it’s just thinner, though still quite full-bodied,” Ken Haedrich says.
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups peeled potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup finely chopped onions
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups 2% reduced-fat milk
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 cups shredded extra-sharp Cheddar cheese
1/4 teaspoon salt
Coarsely ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Instructions
1. Combine potatoes and broth in a large stockpot. Cover and bring to a simmer. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat.
2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add onions and cook, stirring, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir into potato mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until thickened.
3. Add milk and cook, stirring, about 8 minutes. Do not boil. Remove from heat and stir in mustard and about half the cheese. Stir until melted. Add remaining cheese. Season with salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper. Serves 5.
Recipe reprinted with permission from Ken Haedrich’s Soup Makes the Meal (Harvard Common Press, 2001).
Soups On, American Profile 10/11/09
Nutritional Information
Nutritional facts per serving: 320 calories, 21g fat, 13g protein, 20g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 640mg sodium.
Tortellini, Greens and Bean Soup
“Tortellini is probably my favorite pasta for soup because the shape is so neat and you get a little bonus with the filling. This is a hearty soup, and because of the quantity of the tortellini used, the result is almost more of a brothy pasta main dish than it is a soup,” says Ken Haedrick.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 to 3 cups stemmed and chopped spinach or Swiss chard
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 (9-ounce) package fresh cheese or meat tortellini
1 cup canned chickpeas,
drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Coarsely ground black pepper
Parmesan cheese (optional)
Instructions
1. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion, celery, garlic and basil and salt. Cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
2. Add spinach and continue cooking until greens are wilted, 4 to 5 minutes.
3. Add broth and bring to a boil. Add tortellini, chickpeas, tomato paste and pepper. Return soup to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, 5 minutes. Garnish each serving with shaved Parmesan cheese, if desired. Serves 6.
Recipes reprinted with permission from Ken Haedrich’s Soup Makes the Meal (Harvard Common Press, 2001).
"Soups On," American Profile, 10/11/09
Tips from the Test Kitchen
Tip from Our Test Kitchen: Brown 8 ounces of kielbasa and add to soup for added flavor.
Nutritional Information
Nutritional facts per serving: 250 calories, 8g fat, 11g protein, 33g carbohydrates, 3g fiber, 970mg sodium.
Robust Beef and Potato Soup
“This one is for the meat and potato lovers of the world. It has all the flavor and aroma of beef stew, and like stew, it tastes better on the second day. To make this even more stew-like, add some green beans or frozen lima beans,” Ken Haedrich says.
Ingredients
1 1/4 pounds beef stew meat,
trimmed of fat
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
8 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 garlic clove, minced
6 cups low-sodium beef broth
3/4 cup canned crushed tomatoes in purée
1/3 cup dry red wine
3/4 teaspoon salt
Coarsely ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 large russet potatoes,
peeled and cubed
Instructions
1. Cut stew meat into bite-size pieces. Heat oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add meat and brown on all sides.
2. Transfer meat to a bowl. Add onion and celery to pan, adding more oil if needed. Cook, stirring, over medium heat 5 minutes. Stir in mushrooms, carrot and garlic. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except potatoes. Add beef.
3. Bring to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add potatoes and return soup to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
Serves 8.
Recipe reprinted with permission from Ken Haedrich’s Soup Makes the Meal (Harvard Common Press, 2001).
Soups On, American Profile, 10/11/09
Nutritional Information
Nutritional facts per serving: 280 calories, 11g fat, 21g protein, 23g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 380mg sodium.
first appeared: 10/8/2009
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10/20/09 11:59 AM
Our family has been in the grocery business for over 30 years and loves to cook, so when my brother J.R. dropped this story off on my desk this morning it was a big hit for several reasons.
First, I love Soup. With three sons and a large extended family, this time of year my lovely bride always has a creation or two close at hand. From traditional Latino Sancocho to Thai infused productions my wife, Maria, is a fearless and natural experimenter. Being Panamanian, she brings a mix of Central American / Caribbean creativity to the palate. As one of 15 children she is known as the daughter with the magic touch when it comes to preparing foods. Maria added to her culinary repertoire as we literally traveled the world in our first years of marriage because of my service in the Marine Corps.
Then there’s the great love of food our family shares in general. Dad is the patriarchal cook and his two sons (my brother and I) love to chip in. J.R. is a savant of the barbecue and along with Dad introduces new masterpieces. J.R. is also the principle architect behind our famous coffee infused recipes. Additionally, my sister-in-law Holly has a unique flair and is joined now by our youngest sister, Lisa, who has expressed her creativity in deserts. Lisa’s husband, Brent the hunter, has added fresh game to the mix.
As a retired Marine I’ve had the privilege to serve with my brothers and sisters in arms across services. The Navy Seabees easily rank among the best and most professional. Ken Haedrich might enjoy the story of my boxing partner and sailor, Petty Officer Don Martin, honoring me, Corporal Salmans at the time, with a broken nose. Fond memories regardless. Jean Kressy, thank you for writing this story. I look forward to experimenting with some new recipes.
And Ken, thank you for your Service.
With Utmost Respect ~ Semper Fi, Hank
Major, USMC (Retired)
Owner/Founder Devil Dog Brew
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