Crossing the River

In the early days of this nation, ferries were more common than bridges. And while a town or a county might establish a ferry to boost local commerce, many were privately run, a frontier entrepreneurship that provided a man’s livelihood while at the same time easing transportation difficulties.

Today, all year round, all day long, free of charge, the Woodland ferry carries people 500 feet across the Nanticoke River from the banks of Woodland, Del., to the town of Laurel, back and forth, slow and steady, three or four vehicles at a time. The ferry has been doing the job for more than 300 years, and nobody seems to mind taking a route less traveled. Many prefer it; the ferry totes nearly 70,000 vehicles a year.

“It’s quite possible that this is the oldest operating ferry in use in the United States,” says local historian Jack Knowles. “Using the ferry does cut back on travel time. If I wanted to drive to Laurel, it would take me a good 15 minutes longer than it does using the ferry.”

Folks who call Woodland home think of it as a place that never grows old. “I’ve lived here my whole life, 60 years,” Knowles says. “My father did before me and his father before him. This is a beautiful, quiet place to live. It’s almost like it’s been trapped in time. It changes very little.” He can cite one change, though: “We used to have a post office back in the 1800s. We don’t have one now.”

A single road winds along the river into and out of Woodland, whose population is about 50 souls. The river, edged with wispy grasses and tall reeds, flows on one side of the road, while a handful of houses line the other. The quiet sounds of Woodland sneak up on you—the gentle hum and swish of the ferry, the call of a water bird.

In the mid-1600s, Woodland welcomed English settlers and laid claim as a community. A ferry began traversing the river in 1671 when Colonial law required that free passage ferries be maintained to make rivers, swamps, and creeks passable for foot and horse. But getting across, even with a ferry, wasn’t easy. Elbow grease from the ferrymen and help from horses, ropes, and notched poles got the cargo from bank to bank.

Today, the 65-foot steel boat’s diesel engine pulls the ferry across by a cable. It’s run by the Delaware Department of Transportation with a two-man crew—a Coast Guard certified captain and a deckhand.

“It doesn’t get much better than this,” says deckhand Eddie Joyner. “It’s fun to work on a piece of living history.”

Every September, since 1993, the Woodland Ferry Association has hosted a Ferry Celebration that attracts visitors from all over the country. The village comes alive with displays and demonstrations and tours of the town’s historic homes.

“It’s wonderful to be able to share the village, the ferry, and all of its history,” says Donna Angell, association secretary. “I’ve lived here my whole life. This is where my heart is.”

One of the favorite stops for most visitors is Days Gone By, a two-building museum owned and operated by Knowles. One building is loaded with antique farm and fishing equipment; the other brims with old newspaper articles and records about Woodland, including the ferry. There’s no fee to enter the museum, and the hours are simple: “I’m retired, so I’m around most of the time. If the museum isn’t open, just knock, I’ll let you in,” Knowles says.

“Woodland gets quite a few tourists that don’t mean to end up here,” he says. “They’re usually people in transit to somewhere else. But once they find it, they stay a bit. This town does that to people.”

Tracy Leinberger-Leonardi is a frequent contributor to American Profile.

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