Locally Grown

Those who sell what they grow do it out of a passion for tasty produce

There’s something to admire in people who have a close relationship with the earth—who understand it and work it.

Adrian Offinger is such a person. For more than 65 years, he’s operated a roadside produce stand in Wilton, Conn., (pop. 2,000) annually setting out vegetables and cut flowers for interested passers-by who might have a yen for the unrivaled taste of fresh produce.

“I got started with bees, you know,” says the sprightly 81-year-old. “Started selling honey. Then it went from one thing to another.”

But it was more than bees that got Offinger’s business off to a resourceful start when he was just 15.

“I used to have a Model T Ford,” he says. “It was a coupe. I took out the trunk and put in a little platform and went down to Chestnut Hill Properties (an early Wilton subdivision). I’d peddle it out right there, set it out on the back of the coupe. I’d stop at different houses. Had all these customers down there.”

That initial customer base blossomed. “I’ve been here with Adrian 50 years, and some people have come all that time,” notes Offinger’s wife, Mary, 73.

The Offingers plant three to four acres of the 18 they own. Normally that wouldn’t raise any more attention than finding an earthworm in topsoil, but then you have to consider where the Offingers live. Their spread just happens to lie in one of the wealthiest real estate areas in the country, little more than an hour and 20 minutes from New York City. Of course, back in 1936, only woods, fields, and quiet country pastures covered the land.

Today the Offingers’ little produce stand offers a colorful mix of tomatoes, cut flowers—Sweet William, peonies, and zinnias—lettuce, corn, squash, cabbage, beets, and green beans. “It’s basically tomatoes and cut flowers,” Offinger says.

The cool northern climate dictates a late growing season, with usually no items for sale until the end of May. “The earliest thing on the stand is rhubarb.”

By Offinger’s assessment, his business is small; but he has evenly maintained the same output over the years. “It hasn’t dropped, but I should drop it,” he says. “I perhaps do more than I should be doing. It’s a hobby, you know. It doesn’t make sense economically.”

A timeworn tradition of a tin box with a lid serves as the stand’s cash register. And like many such operations, transactions are on the honor system.

Simplicity as much as direct manner has defined the farming way of life in America for almost 400 years. In keeping with that example, Offinger says, “The main point of this garden effort is to feed ourselves. Two things, though: I love to see things grow, and I love to turn a buck.”

Branching out

In contrast to the longevity of Offingers’ Farm is the five-year venture of Lisa and Richard Carter. With their three children, the Carters moved from Frisco, Texas, (pop. 17,412) to Seymour, Iowa, (pop. 774) in 1993.

“Richard and I grew up here (in Iowa), within 14 miles of each other,” says Lisa Carter, who runs the farm full time. “Right out of high school we moved to Texas. Once the kids got to be of school age, we wanted to get them back up here around our families and into a small school.”

They are making their 20-acre farm “as productive as we can, and self-sufficient,” she says. One of the ways they are doing this is through direct marketing. Since 1996, they have sold produce from the farm. Now they are branching out, opening a farmer’s market in town. In addition to a slew of vegetables, ranging from raspberries and strawberries to sweet corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, and 11 different kinds of peppers, the Carters also sell livestock.

“It’s quite a diverse operation,” she says. “We raise and sell lambs, goats, chickens. I have 55 lambs so far.”

Carter Farm also incorporates the efforts of Lisa Carter’s father and grandparents. “My granddad is 90, but he raises a great garden. He’s pretty amazing.” Produce from all three family sources funnels into the farm and onto the farm stand.

“I find that people really appreciate that maybe they don’t have time to attend to a garden or livestock,” she explains. “They appreciate the fact that they can get fresh produce here.”

Fresh on the farm at Carter Farm means growing organically. “I’ve never been much for using chemicals,” Carter says. “I would say it was just a natural thing.”

Growing numbers

John Rueb (pronounced Reeb) and his Korean-born wife, Yong, owners of Forever Yong Farm in Amado, Ariz., (pop. 275) fight challenging elements and arid conditions in their efforts to farm in the Southwest. They also choose to go organic.

“That’s the way I learned how to grow,” Rueb says. “I’ve always stuck with that. One of the main reasons for doing this was to get away from environmental problems and have nothing but pure water, clean air, and chemical-free organic produce. It all works together.”

Rueb, a former Chicago stockbroker, calls himself and his wife “back-to-the-landers.”

“This is John’s passion,” Yong says. “He’s really good at what he does, and he believes in high-quality produce.” For Rueb, whom Yong calls Farmer John, the dream of becoming a farmer has come full circle.

“My dad tried to get out and buy a farm when we were young, and he was never able to do that.”

Forever Yong Farm lies about an hour south of Tucson, near the Mexican border. Its near-remoteness presents logistical problems for standard farm standing.

“Anyone can give me a call and ask what I have available, then come on out,” Rueb says. “Our location makes it difficult to have an open stand. But the invitation is open all the time for people to come.”

Indeed, the Ruebs offer a “pick-your-own,” where the buyer literally goes into the fields and harvests his or her own produce.

Of benefit to both the Ruebs and their customers is a year-round growing season. At any given time, Forever Yong Farm yields garlic, onions, spinach, chard, basil, squash, and pumpkins.

“Last year I had a couple of school classes come out and pick pumpkins,” Rueb says, smiling. “That’s the fun part: going out into a pumpkin patch.”

But for all the fun of farm standing, precious few statistics exist. Only since the 1992 agricultural census have farm stands been included as part of a larger direct marketing equation that includes farmers’ markets and CSAs (community-supported agriculture).

“The number of farms involved in direct marketing has been increasing,” says Claire Klotz, U.S. Department of Agriculture economist. “But if you’re going to have a roadside stand or pick-your-own, you have to work for those customers. Some farms are offering entertainment for kids, or maybe they have a petting zoo. Call it ‘agri-tainment,’ but some see it as a real opportunity to get more customer dollars.”

Janet Fossel, a former Duxbury, Mass., (pop. 15,000) grower who now owns a farm in Goodlettesville, Tenn., (pop. 12,770) with her husband, Peter, remembers the attractive roadside gardens that beckoned fresh-produce hunters to their New England farm.

“Peter was right. He said, ‘If we make it lovely, they will stop.’ And it’s true, they did come,” Fossel says. “They would come and sit on the bench. They would get excited. They were grateful. We shared with them, and they with us. They brought us pots, jars … they were enthusiastic. We had a couple of goldfish ponds. Kids would come and want to know the names of the goldfish. You’d see so many things being fulfilled there. It was so peaceful, (customers) didn’t want to leave.”

Alan Ross is West regional editor for American Profile.

Upload Your Own Stories, Photos and Videos

Every week, American Profile magazine brings you stories that celebrate the people and places that make America great. Now we want to hear your stories and see your photos, videos and even audio.

 Start Uploading Now!

 

Discuss this Article